A Puerto Rican Adventure
It’s that time of year; we are squarely in the middle of winter. The holidays have passed and the sun shining is more of a delightful surprise than an expected given. While the snow is beautiful and the winter weather invites cozy nights of rest, visiting somewhere sunny, like Puerto Rico was exactly what my soul needed! I wish we could have all gone, but instead I’ll invite you to read all about the flavors and sights of my trip to San Juan.
Flavors:
Puerto Rican food is fresh and simple, sourcing local ingredients like plantains and root vegetables for their dishes. But don’t be fooled by the simplicity, it is also delicious! Fresh ceviche, tuna tar tar, grilled fish tacos, garlic butter shrimp, slow braised meats, flavorful red rice and beans; you can feel the care and intention behind the dishes. From my experiences in PR, I get the sense that for the restauranters, it’s not about the bottom line, it’s about delivering cherished tastes and continuing the legacies of the island’s flavors. The servers were open, warm, and eager to share their recommendations or the stories behind the printed menu. In Puerto Rico, it’s very easy to eat gluten free as rice, beans, and plantains are staples. Very little is breaded or fried but if you’re lucky enough to find an alcapurria (green banana and root vegetable fritter often stuffed or topped with beef or crab) give your gluten-free self full permission to indulge!
El Refràn: a serendipitiously simple google search brought us to this restaurant in the Condado Beach neighborhood of San Juan. No more than 8 tables, it was the evening’s dining choice for tourists and locals alike. I had grilled shrimp, buttery and garlicky, over a bed of seasoned perfectly cooked rice and beans and a side of house-made tostones, crisp and salty smashed slices of plantain made on the grill top. To drink, a non-alcoholic grapefruit mojito- with fresh mint, so satisfying! My aunt had a “boribowl” with grilled chicken that very well may have been the best grilled chicken I’ve ever tasted.
Santaella: we visited on a Sunday- the one day per week they close their main dining area to open the rooftop, serving a limited menu featuring plates perfect for sharing. Their vibe is contemporary meets tropical and this is a spot I would make sure I return to every visit. I had a watermelon mojito (sans alcohol) and you could taste the fresh melon purée in every sip, muddled with mint. We shared alcapurrias, a roasted hen of the woods mushroom, and burrata sitting atop a sauce medley of stone fruit and sundried tomato. Everything was phenomenal- and to finish: a banana sundae topped with homemade whipped cream and house-caramel sauce.
Sights:
I must immediately point out the Caribbean blue of the water- layers of turquoise form in the ocean as the waves build and crash at shore. We took a boat ride to a tiny island off the eastern coast and I was simply mesmerized by the color of the water. It really does live up to (maybe exceed) the pictures. Puerto Rico is full of color- especially in Old San Juan, known famously for its brightly colored architecture. One street may have houses with 10 different vibrant shades.
For the adventure-seeking, there is a cable car over the rainforest or snorkeling off the coast to spot sea turtles and bright tropical fish. There are also three bioluminescent bays on the island: visit at night for a kayak or paddle board tour- yep they really do glow in the dark!
My favorite sight? The bright warm, nearly ever present sun. We had great weather with only a few passing showers- one of which created a massive arced rainbow in the sky. Smiles abound in Puerto Rico from the residents and tourists alike. Maybe it’s just hard not to be happy when you are in one of the most beautiful places nature can offer.
Sounds:
At our resort, The Royal Sonesta, located just 5 minutes from the airport, I’d fall asleep each night with the balcony door open to the sounds of the rolling waves and the chirps of the Coqui frogs. Despite being so close to the bustle of the city, we were struck with the ubiquitous presence of the natural world that accompanies even developed areas. While lounging by the pool, the quiet scurry of lizards or the loud ramblings of Iguanas could be heard (and seen!) Puerto Ricans don’t try to separate themselves from the island’s nature. They not only embrace, but take great pride in sharing it with visitors!
In restaurants and bars, the music invites you to move- my Aunt commented “every song has a heartbeat!” It’s impossible not to tap your foot to the satisfying rhythm of the soundtrack of Puerto Rico. Speaking of, I would be remiss not to mention Bad Bunny’s album “DeBí TiRAR MáS FOToS,” which won Album of the Year at the Grammy’s- while we were in PR! Like in his album, you can feel the joy that comes from gathering with music- whether at a Salsa Bar or vibing on the beach.
Puerto Rico may be an easier trip than you’d think, being part of the US there’s no need for passports or customs. You can find reasonably priced nonstop tickets from the northeast. It’s the perfect size for exploring and offers the unique old town feel in Old San Juan alongside lush nature from beaches to caves to rainforests. Ubering is a breeze and locals are more than happy to share their favorite spots. Consider Puerto Rico for your next Caribbean adventure- even if it’s just for a weekend!